Monday, October 21, 2013

Fisterra to Muxia. Day 37

It's no fun to be farkled. 

Left Fisterra at about 7:45 under threatening skies. I was not in the mood to walk in the dark or even walk, but I had committed (to myself) that I would walk to Muxia as my last walk of this camino. 

After retying my boots too many times, I donned my rain gear and put on my pack cover. It didn't look good. Then the rain came and, of course, my boot became untied again. 

Then the rain abated, and then it began anew. Then it abated and then it began anew. My rain pants were on and off. My jacket, under which I was sweating profusely, stayed on. 

It was actually quite a pleasant walk through eucalyptus trees and with some ocean views. There were sheep, goats, horses, and many many farms along the way. 

About half way I stopped in As Liees, where one must get a stamp to prove you didn't take the bus to Finisterra if you want the special Compostella from Muxia. Yes I got the stamp but it's raining too hard to worry about the Compostella. 

After coffee, freshly squeezed OJ and a made- to-order tortilla, I got ready to head on only to realize that it was once again raining. I put my rain pants back on (in shorts by now) and set out. The rain abated again, it was beautiful, and so I took off the rain pants. BIG mistake. 

It was pleasant for a bit , but then the rain came in earnest and there was no time to get my rain pants on, which was not an issue so much as long as I was in the forest. The wind was howling, the trees were swaying and I finally plugged in my iPod to help make the time pass. 

Eventually, after successfully following the camino, I ended up on a road and lost the markers. I walked and walked getting more apprehensive and nervous the farther I went. Cars passed but I reached no towns or villages. Eventually, in a very small village (no cafés) I turned as a car came up behind me. The car slowed and I asked with trepidation if I were headed to Muxia. I thought for sure that I was way off track and would end up in a taxi. It was with tears of relief that I heard him say I was on the right road and to turn left at the stop sign. 

At the stop sign I had 3.4 km to go. With relief I walked on and on and on. Past the beach and the roaring waves crashing against the rocks. Through town following the signs for my albergue, which is, of course , at the other end of town. Not just 3.4 km I can assure you. 

I arrived at the albergue with water sloshing in my boots (yes I could pour it out and wring out my socks) and the gentleman there helped me with my wet things, brought me flip flops, carried my pack for me and took me to my bottom bunk. 

Before being led to my bunk a woman appeared telling me they would be sting dice games at 3:30. You can't imagine what I was thinking (or maybe you can. ).  



After showering and organizing and getting my things in the washing machine, I did, indeed, find myself playing games on the kitchen. Great fun playing FARKLE!  with Julie, a John-O, Lizzie, Mary, and Doug. 

So here I am eating dinner and heading to bed early to catch the first bus back to Santiago. May not clear till the afternoon do I see no reason to hang out. A shame, really since Muxia is a beautiful seasid town. 

I bought gifts at my albergue--beautiful creations made by local individuals with intellectual disabilities. Wonderful. 

And so my walking days on this camino are over. From now on it is a bus a train and three plames to get home. And home is where I am ready to be. 

It has been an amazing journey, the benefits of which I have only just begin to realize. My friends told me they are impressed by how calm I am. Hopefully I can take some of that with me home as I begin my next camino  --  life on the home front once again. 

An amazing camino for which I am so very grateful to my family.  This has been a true gift and a great blessing. 

A pretty little village though this doesn't do it justice. 


Washing. 

Cementary. 

Another nice village. A pre-torrential downpour. 


Entering Muxia. 



Sunday, October 20, 2013

Fisterra. The End of the Earth. Day 36

Well, I thought I would get up early this morning and maybe catch the sun rise or the moon setting (this is a peninsula after all), but it was so dark out and still wet from the night's rain, and I was quite cozy in my bunk that I smuggled in and didn't rise until 7:45.  Remember, the sun does not show itself until 8:30 or so. It was pretty cloudy sj I gmgad breakfast with Gabrielle before setting out. 

My destination this morning was the lighthouse which, prior to Christopher Columbus's exploration, was thought to be the end of the Earth. It feels prett much like that actually. 

I hiked out as far as I dared and reflected on my journey after which I flung as far as I could the piece of sea glass I brought from home. There is a ritual of burning an article if clothing at the lighthouse to symbolize leaving one' burdens behind and marking the end of one journey and the beginning of another. Some of us choose to throw something in the water, others write down past transgressions and either burn them or throw them to the sea. 

I thought I would explore a bit and then go back to the restaurant at the lighthouse for cafe con leche and the restroom, but the more I climbed Cabo Finisterre the more intrigued I became and before I knew it I was at new heights with incredible views. Eventually I found my way down the other side and to a beach on the west coast and back into town. 

The beach I found was the one I wanted to find because if it doesn't rain I will go there to watch the sun set. 

Tomorrow I hope to leave by 7:30 to be able to see the moon before it sets. It will be my last walk of my most incredible pilgrimage. 

Interesting flowers. 

Church in town. 
Cross on the way out to the lighthouse 
Pilgrim statue
Cross at lighthouse
Cross out past lighthouse  just behind it are ashes from people burning their belongings 
Even further out!


Great sun shot. 



The beach where I hope to see the sunset. Weather permitting. 
Picnic table where I stopped for an apple. 

Walking to the beach. 


Out to pasture. On my way back to town. 

And now I am going for a walk on the beach! 

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Santiago to Fisterra (Finisterre) Day 35

None of us ventured out last night to meet in front of the cathedral for a group dinner; the rain was coming down in torrents. Fortunately our hotel served both drinks and dinner. Good times were had over wine in the pilgrim lounge (the only spot with wifi ). 

Lucette and I hopped in a cab to the bus station for the 9:00 to Finisterre. When we got in the bus I was decked out in full rain gear and pack cover. By the thine the bus arrived in Cer, where I jumped off, my rain pants were packed away. A few minutes on the camino and my jacket was stashed as well. 

Michele and Sarah chose not to join us due to the rain. They will be sorely disappointed when the see the photos of the beach and ocean under a blue sky !  

The walk from Cee, about 12 km, was mostly on road, but well worth the views as I walked along the shore. Entering Fisterra I was faced with a most difficult decision:  stay on the camino along the beach or walk barefoot in the sand for a couple of kilometers. I sat on a bench contemplating my choices over a sandwich I made at breakfast. Of course, the decision was not a difficult one to make. 

At the end of the beach is my albergue. Holy Cow. Ten euros and I am on a bottom bunk looking out at the sea. I'm not sure it can get much better than that as far as albergues are concerned. Thank heaven for the tip from a fellow pilgrim in Santiago!  

Met Gabrielle who arrived yesterday and we walked to the harbor for a cafe con leche (for her ) and a beer (for me) after which I took another walk on the beach looking for St Jacques--scallop shells. 

All showered and laundry hanging to drmy and I took a walk, bought some sandwich fixings for tomorrow and now I am enjoying a glass of vino tinto as I look out over the harbor. Unfortunately dinner is not served until 7:00. Another hour...

I am so glad that I made it here even if I only walked a fraction of the 90 km to get here. The ocean is such a magnet never mind the lore surrounding St. James that exists here and in Muxia (my next destination). 

Tomorrow I will explore, walk to the lighthouse and rest up for the 28 km walk to Muxia. 

Buen camino. 

Leaving Muxia. The group of people on the photo were so friendly and upbeat wishing me a Buen camino and steering me in the right direction. 

Muxia
Muxia
Still Muxia 
Leaving Muxia up a huge hill. There are palm trees, the plants, evergreens and eucalyptus trees all in the same area. 

These are all stone in this area. 



Almost there 

A woman at a scenic pull off offered to take a photo of me. 
Deserted beach. I was tempted , but it would have been a strep hike back up. 
Yes, I took this one. 
My view when eating lunch on a bench. At the end of this beach is Fisterra. 
Yes!!!  My feet were so very happy. 

View from my albergue. 
Gabrielle from Vancouver Island Canada. She is at the same albergue. 
Yup, stairs to the water. 


Harbor 

View from where I am having dinner and writing this.