Dinner Sunday night.

Our pilgrim dinner at this wonderful hotel/albergue. Our hostess is the most amazing cook. Some delicious homemade soup to begin fiollowed by a calimari dish that was stew-like with veggies. I guess when she gets fresh seafood she feeds it to the pilgrims!  

This is dessert. Better than tiramisu!  

The liquor she served us after dessert. If I can find it at the airport I am bringing home a bottle ! 

Itera de Vega to Poblacion de Campos. Day 16

17-18 km today. Rained a bit and then threatened for the rest of the trek. Didn't leave till about 8:30 this morning; I am trying to beat this chest cold. 

This is a church just outside Boadilla de Camino. 

I stopped here for breakfast. Wow!  I had a ham egg and cheese on bread that was freshly made. Usually bocadillas are pre-made. This was fabulous. 

This is a statue outside the cafe. 

 

The door of the church here --not open. 

Check out this bird's nest!  

On the way to Fromista I walked along a canal. It was really pleasant. 

After Fromista was the sculpture  I took pictures if both angles. It is amazing how many statues of pilgrims there are on the camino. 

Just before entering tow I saw this church. The thing is, most churches are closed especially on the mornings. This being Sunday, I took a chance and was able to catch the last half of mass. Lovely small church. Very simple. It is these small simple churches that speak to me of God. I don't see God on the huge elaborate (costly) cathedrals. I don't think that's what Jesus was all about. 

Very cool lantern holder. 

Today I splurged on a small hotel. This is pure luxury. A bathroom to myself with room to dry off!  Toilet paper!  A sink with hand soap and real towels!  

Not to mention the bed. Real sheets. I may never get out of it!  

When I arrived I was given a glass if orange juice, then some sausage and bread (small snack ) And then a glass of red wine. I feel so very pampered. Going back to an albergue tomorrow night won't be easy. 

Tomorrow is another relatively short day. The next day begins with 17km with no towns along the way. Yuck. Have to be prepared for that. Leave early and have extra water and food with me. 

San Bol to Itera de Vega. Day 15

Sorry, no photos today. My phone (camera ) died and I could not charge it until arriving here. 

The first part of the walk was dark and threatening. At one point we walked up a 12% grade for one km. before reaching the top, the rain began in earnest. So did the wind. Heading downhill began with an 18% grade for 350 meters. Fortunately this was paved rather than muddy, rocky trail. The wind blew from the south and the rain came down in torrents pelting me and managing to get in any opening. Thank heaven for good rain gear!  Those with ponchos and no rain pants were quite wet. 

Walked by the ruins of a convent. Sad not to have been able to take photos. It must have been amazing in its time. 

About 25 km after leavin San Bol I arrived here. Found the municipal albergue and settled in. 

Buen Camino. 

Burgos to San Bol day 14

No, you most likely will not find San Bol on a map. This albergue is in between mesetas in a valley. There is electricity for a couple of horrs while dinner is served and cleaned up. 

It was a long walk today--about 26 km--which would not have been bad except now I have a pull in my left calf above the Achilles. The pain would come and go. 

I met up with Sarah before leaving Burgos and we had a croissant and coffee before heading out. Finding our way out of the city was not easy. Finally we reached quieter streets and paths. Eventually we parted ways because we walk at different paces and she was stopping after 11 km to have a short day and I was walking till I needed to stop. 

The meseta is interesting. Raised plateaus with small valleys in beyween. At least that's how it was today. 

When I stopped to buy an apple the gentleman running the cafe gave me a medal of the saint of that town to wear. When I stopped again, the owner made sure I had my credential stamped by him because it not only had the store name but also how many kilometers to Santiago. Under 500 is what I remember. 

I kept on walking. I passed through where many pilgrims were staying hoping to get to San Bol and get a bed. Not to worry. 

San Bol is not a town. It is an albergue on a valley all by itself. When I arrived there was one other person there (I cannot pronounce his name never mind spell it).  He is French Canadian and very animated. The albergue was due to open at two. At exactly two, Felix showed up and opened the door. We were quite relieved because it is so deserted here and I for one did not want to walk another five k!  

There is a small pool here fed by a stream. Legend has it that if one soaks one's feet in the pool no more foot problems!  I soaked for a long time--until my feet were frozen!  It felt so good. 

It's 9:00 and I am tired so I will finish this tomorrow. It was such a fun night. 

Back again... There were seven of us at San Bol. We all opted for the home cooked meal our host provided for a mere 7 euro. As we were eating two more pilgrims arrived. FC (my new Drench Canadian friend) kept the dinner conversation moving as he is very animated and speaks French , English and Spanish. When the others joined us, things became even more animated. The gentleman who arrived was telling a story with the woman who just arrived about how he asked her to help him push his bike up the hill. None of us was sure why he needed help...  He and FC knee some of the same songs and before we knew it we were all singing a silly song with hand movements. I am looking forward to receiving the photo of us all. 

When our host left for the night, he turned on two lanterns, turned off the generator , and we were plunged into darkness. Total darkness were it not for the lanterns.   

Buen camino 

To San Bol pictures

Walking ..... Over a river. 

No doubt about which way to go!

The meseta

Sunflower field ...  For sunflower oil. 

Yeah!  San Bol very soon! 

At San Bol after soaking my feet. No the legend is not true. I have blisters. 

Where I washed my clothes. 

Singing 

And enjoying. The man standing is Gelixour  host. 

Burgos Part II

We had hamburgers tonight!  Really good burgers with fries and a beer. 

Then we went to the candy store ... I would call it a penny candy store but nothing is a penny anymore. So , I don't have ant fruit to get me through until breakfast (could not find the grocery store), but I have gummy bears, chocolate covered things and peanuts. 

Came back to get organized for sleep (while the city is picking up speed and most restaurants are just opening for dinner) and our hospitalero is serenading us with his guitar and his singing. 

What a wonderful way to spend an evening--All of us peregrinos hanging out and listening to wonderful Spanish music.

(I take that back.  He's singing "I'm All Shook Up" by Elvis!)

Buen camino. 

 

Ages to Burgos Day 13

What a great start this morning. Yes it was quite dark leaving Ages and there was a lot of walking on the road but it soon turned to path.  (Speaking of roads--trucks drive through some of these small towns as though they are on the highway. It's treacherous!)

As I neared the top of a hill (big hill ) it was getting light. There was a cross at the top, a cross on the ground made of stone and a labyrinth. 

Along the left side as I descended toward Nurgos was a military zone ... barbed wire only about five feet tall but three layers thick. 

View of Burgos in the distance... Still a long way to go. 

Agh. Early morning sky. 

Sunflowers. There are fields and fields if them. 

Poppies!  Little dainty ones. 

This family wishes us all well 

Not sure of the name if this town. 

The door of the church in the photo above. 

I took the alternate route along the river rather than the original route that now is in the industrial zone. 

Yes a beach on the river. 

Finally I reached the city. Seemed to take forever 

Burgos. 

The cathedral. 

Some photos of my tour of the cathedral. 

Choir room. 

Met up with Michele, Manon, Rene, Barb and Ellen while wandering. They took a bus here yesterday. Will get together for dinner tonight. 

As much as the city has a lot to see, I miss the small towns. 

This slbergue, run by the church, is on the third floor reached by a spiral staircase!

It was not easy to find!  

The parts of the cathedral open for prayer only (not tourism and no photos allowed) open at 4:30. I will head over after a bit and before meeting the others for dinner. Early night again tonight. Early start tomorrow for a long walk on the meseta. It is flat and has little shade. 

Buen camino.