Villavente to Astorga. Day 22

Today was a magic day. It's difficult to put into words , but it topped all days up to now. I followed three Germans out of Villavente (it was pitch black at 7:00 am ) and we made our way to Hospital de Orbiga about  four km away. By the time we arrived it was getting light out. This is where we had breakfast. 

After breakfast we crossed this bridge, which was the sight of some serious medieval jousting. The story is too long to recount here , but it had to do with a woman and the man priving his love--or some such thing. He defeated (broke) 300 lances!  The bridge has 19 arches. The river was much larger before a dam was built. 

This recounts the history of the joists I believe.  

Sun hitting the church. 

I lucked out and the church was open while local women cleaned. A wonderful quiet spot for reflection and prayer. 

Looking up in the church. 

The retablo. 

Organ 

Leaving Hospital de Orbiga. 

The house (?) was built into the side of the hill. I know there are bodegas built into the hills to store wine and other items, but this looked lived in. 

In this part of Spain the hay is rolled. 

This cat greeted pilgrims as we entered the town. 

Down the steps to agua potable. 

This cow was making quite a racket; perhaps because he was the only one who didn't fit at the trough. 

About half way from the last town to Astorga os David's refreshment stand. They offer snacks and drinks to pilgrims at no charge. Fortunately there was a donation box. 

A labyrinth at David's. 

This is Andre who works the stand with David, who had gone into town. When I mentioned that I needed a new pilgrim passport because I had run out of room for stamps, he had those as well!  His is the first stamp. 

The snack stand. 

Amazing how we lose sight of how we actually look while walking the camino. Two pair of shorts, two shirts, one long-sleeved shirt, a fleece, and rain gear. The knee braces are essential after ruining my knees way back in the Pyrenees. 

This is Marty from British Columbia. We walked most of the day together, which was nice. It's the first day I didn't walk alone the whole day. It helped that we walk at the same pace.  Marty moved on to the next town after Astorga. 

YIPPPPEEEEEEE!!!!!

Real peanut butter (and organic). What a treat. The last peanut butter I had was Teddie at home before I left home. This was just as good, if not better. I was in heave, sitting in the sun on a beautiful day eating peanut butter at a snack shack run by two men who do it out of love for God to help the pilgrims. Another magic moment to my already magical day. 

Renee and IZ from Australia. 

Arrows leading the way. 

The cross before Astorga. The city is in the background. Only four km to go. 

This man was singing on the hill near the cross. He required a donation to have a picture taken with him. 

Pilgrim statue in Astorga. 

Astorga sights. 

City square. 

The cathedral 

The best potatoes ever with aoli. 

Gaudi's castle... Built for a bishop who never lived there. Became a camino museum. 

After visiting the cathedral and the castle I visited the chocolate museum. I have plans to take the chocolate home, but it weighs a bit. Hopefully I will find a PO and be able to send it to Santiago where I can collect it before returning home. If not, we may have to eat it!  

We are cooking dinner tonight-- pasta if course. 

Tomorrow begins the ascent into the mountains. 

Buen camino. 

Leon to Villavente. Day 21

Left our albergue early and caught a cab to Virgen de Camino -about 8. Km out of the city so we didn't have to walk through the industrial section. We met Pablo, from Canada, whose family is from Santiago. He helped us with the cab, had coffee with us in Virgen de Camino and then went on his way. 

I left Sarah and Michele with plans to meet up here in Villavente. I walk faster and for some reason don't stop as often.

It was a nice walk today--full of sun, which was quite welcome after all the torrential rain we had. Too bad I lost my sunscreen. After walking a path for a shirt while the majority if the walking was on a long long road. I did stop for a Coke (yes, a real Coke!) and to fix up a blister on my baby toe. Very uncomfortable. Tomorrow I will stop at a pharmacy for a little foam tube to put over it at the suggestion of a fellow pilgrim who checked it out. Moleskin just isn't cutting it. 

The alternative to walking the road was to walk alongside the highway in a path. Yuck. Mind you, on these back roads running through acres and acres of farmland the cars and small trucks travel at speeds worthy of the highway. A bit scary at times. 

The last four kilometers were on a dirt road which was much better. My feet hurt though, my toes hurt (why do those second toes have to be longer than the big toes?), and I was getting pretty hungry. 

Had lunch here at the albergue (same old tortilla) with a Catholic priest from northen England who is on sabbatical. He has been walking for 48 days having begun in Le Puy, France. 

This albergue, the Santa Lucia, is phenomenal. 

My first glimpse. 

The dorm. Actually quite nice. Wooden bunks with space to sit up on the bottom!

 The front. It doesn't look like much but it is great. 

Sarah and Michele before dinner. 

Relaxing on a couch. Last couch I sat on was at home. 

Dinner was great. A salad and fish with fries. The fish was not fried. The salads here for the most part all have lettuce, tomatoes, tuna, white asparagus , tuna, and olives. Sometimes there is shredded carrot and shredded beets. I have had fish many times and it has always been really good and really fresh. Fries are served with everything. Andrew would love it. 

Here are some photos from waking today and from around this very small town. 

Terradios to Leon. Day 20

Well, with the threat of rain we took a cab to Sahagun and then the train to Leon. I skipped three days of walking, but now have time to get to Finisterre and perhaps Muxia after Santiago. Finisterre means the end of the earth, which it was once thought to be. 

Leon means lion. I guess that's the reason for the lions on the four corners of the bridge over the river. 

Great albergue. Small rooms (3 bunks in a room) with a bathroom. There are only three of us in our room. Fabulous. The couple I am with are from Canada. 

There are a lot of Canadians on the camino.  The other great thing about this albergue is that there are washers and dryers and they are free!  After days of rain and damp clothes, this is a real treat. 

Went exploring. Don't know what this building is, but it is impressive. 

This is the cathedral. Have not gone in yet since it was closed. Maybe early evening. 

Getting closer!  Sahagun was the half-way point. 

There is a medieval festival going on. Here is a kiddie ride. 

And food, of course. 

City square. 

Funny sculpture. 

A fountain , obviously...

When we were at breakfast this morning in Sahagun, mt Canadian friends Michrke, Sarah, Ellen, and Barb were there. They were deciding between a bus and walking or just the bus. When they found out about our taking the train , they quickly changed plans and showed up at the train station. Come to find out, Manon hurt a ligament in her ankle, and so she and Rene were in a hotel in Leon. We had a nice reunion over dinner and celebrated Elken's 70th birthday. Manon and Rene are taking the train to Santiago tomorrow and will spend a few days there. If Manon feels like her ankle is healing she will rest for a few more then travel to Sarria and walk to Santiago from there. (The last 100 km). 

Barb and Ellen are staying one more night in Leon and I will meet up with them in Santiago on the 22nd.  Tomorrow Michele, Sarah and I will head out together.

We've all decided that it is impossible to lose weight on the camino regardless of how much one walks. There is too much bread, cheese, salami, ham and other good things. 

All in all a good day. 

Buen camino. 

Carrion to Terradios de Los Teplarious. Day 19

Okay, another rainy day. We had about an hour of sun (at sunrise) which was quite fantastic. The different shades of brown, gold and green were quite amazing. Then it lit up a hay stack ( they are quite large) to a shiny gold. Unfortunately, mt phone was buried deep to keep it dry so no photos. 

I did, however, finally get a photo of a snail. There are many with much prettier shells than this one. We all watch our steps so as not to crush them. 

Yesterday I saw a crayfish -- no kidding!  I've never seen one landlocked before. It looked like a tiny lobster. 

A dry moment. Soon after I was pulling back on my rain pants and cinching my hood in close. We all agree that goretex is over rated. None of us is dry at the end of the day and it's not sweat... Not that much moisture. Even my feet are damp inside my boots. LLBean will be hearing from me when I return about the jacket !  

This is what it looks like walking the meseta. Long and endless. Not too bad, actually because the landscape is interesting. 

During the dry spell I stopped for a snack (breakfast sort of) and shared with two Irish men who navigated us out of Carrion in the pitch black. And it sure was dark this morning. After the 17 km I finally reached a village for breakfast. Coffee and a tortilla. Perfect. Outside the cafe was a donkey!  Some pilgrim bought this donkey/mule for four euro and is walking the camino with it. From what I hear he was pulling it along at one point and carrying his own backpack!  A lot if good that mule is! 

Stopped at this albergue Templaros, which is quite nice except for the plastic on the bed and pillow. There have been plenty if places with plastic, but this feels especially cold and clammy with the rain. Yes, I have a cover for the pillow.  

Met a couple from North Carolina, Elena and Steve, and Edwin from Gorham, NH.  We had dinner together. Edwin is pushing pretty hard to get to Santiago to meet his wife who will be joining him there. 

During dinner I noticed a lot of lightning through the window. It kept going and going and before we knew it we were outside watching an amazing light show in the distance. None if us has ever seen anything like it. For over a half an hour there was lightning going in all different directions as well as flashes that lit up the sky. 

Tomorrow it is supposed to rain again so we are taking a cab to Sahagun. Edwin will stay there for the night and Elena, Steve and I will take a train to Leon. Entering Leon can be pretty dangerous from what I have read. This gives me a jump ahead so I will be able to make it to Finisterre before heading home. 

That's all for now. More photos soon  

Buen camino. 

 

P .S.  Everything is so wet and nothing will dry. I am now hanging things from the bunk above me. 

Carrion

Walking around town. 

Yup. That's a fish on a scallop shell. 

Sing-a- long. It was great fun. The nun with the guitar has a great voice. She sang and played a zither (or something like that...) at the vesper service. 

At one point we all took turns telling our name, where we are from and why we are walking the camino. A lot of people are just called to it and figure out why when they walk it. 

Poblacion de Campos to Carrion de Los Condes. Day 18

Day 17 was a rest day. I hung out at the hotel and read all day. It was wonderful. I am now better rested and my cold is going away. 

Left by 7:30 this morning. It still amazes me how dark it is at that hour. Pitch black. It was raining, pouring, drizzling, and pouring. Fortunately not too much wind. 

After 10km I stopped at Villalcazar de Sirga for a tortilla bocadilla (scrambled egg on a big chunk of bread). Six km later here I am at albergue Santa Maria. This albergue is run by Benedictine nuns. They don't open until noon, but I was able to shower while I wait to check in. 

Oh--the reason I didn't keep walking today is because the next town in 17 km away. 34 km in one day would be pushing it. Besides, I had read about this albergue and really wanted to stay here. 

We have the following schedule:

5:00 vespers

5:30 sing-a-long

8:00 mass with pilgrim blessing

9:00 community dinner. The nuns provide the first course and we donate something for the rest of the meal. 

It all sounds pretty darn good to me. I'm off to find some dessert and explore the churches. 

 

This didn't come out too well...  It was a pretty yucky morning.  Rain had stopped for a few minutes so I dated take out my phone for a shot. 

Statue here in town. 

Went shopping for something to contribute to dinner and I came back with an extra goodie!